That Khajuraho is still a remote place in Central India is borne out by the fact that the closest major railhead is 175 kilometers (109 miles) away. So it isn't surprising that these temples lay hidden in dense forests for centuries, till a British military adventurer decided to pay heed to a suggestion made by a local of taking a detour to see them. That was 1838. The rest, as they say, is history. For many Khajuraho’s erotic temples are as iconic a representation of India as the Taj. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, these temples represent the apogee of two art forms – sculpture and architecture. In a relatively short span of 100 years, from 950 CE - 1050 CE, these temples were completed in an inspired burst of creativity.
History
In the 27th century of Kali yuga when the Mlechcha (non-Aryan, barbarian) invaders started attacking North India, some Bargujar Rajputs moved towards east to Central India. They ruled over north-eastern region of Rajasthan called Dhundharand and were referred to as Dhundhel/Dhundhela in ancient times, for the region they governed. Later on they called themselves Bundelas and Chandelas those who were in the ruling class having gotra Kashyap were definitely all Bargujars. They were vassals of Gurjara-Pratihara Empire of North India which lasted from 500 CE to 1300 CE and was at its peak when major monuments were built. The Bargujars also built the Kalinjar fort and Neelkanth Mahadev temple similar to one at Sariska National Park and Baroli, being Shiva worshipers. The city was the cultural capital of Chandela Rajputs, a Hindu dynasty that ruled this part of India from the 10th to the 12th centuries. Political capital of Chandelas was Kalinjar. The Khajuraho temples were built over a span of 200 years, from 950 to 1150. The Chandela capital was moved to Mahoba after this time, but Khajuraho continued to flourish for some time. Khajuraho has no forts because the Chandela kings never lived in their cultural capital.
The whole area was enclosed by a wall with eight gates, each flanked by two golden palm trees. There were originally over 80 Hindu temples, of which only 20 odd now stand in a reasonable state of preservation, scattered over an area of about 8 square miles (21 sq. km).
The temples of Khajuraho suffered destruction by early Muslim invaders between 1100-1400 CE as various disfigured statues at the temple complex attest. Today, the temples serve as fine examples of Indian architectural styles that have gained popularity due to their explicit depiction of the traditional way of sexual life during medieval times. Locals living in the Khajuraho village always knew about them and kept up the temples as best as they could. They were pointed out to an English man in late 19th century and the jungles had taken a toll on all of the monuments.
Khajuraho is essentially a tiny cluster of villages centered around the three temple complexes. All within a radius of 3 kilometers (1.8 miles) from the main street. Hence there are no mass transport options here. For those who like to explore places on their own, walking and cycling are good options. The latter available at most budget accommodations and restaurants for about Rs 20 per day. Cycle-rickshaws and auto-rickshaws can also be hired on an hourly, half-day and full-day basis. A full day temple spotting tour would cost you around Rs 300 in an auto-rickshaw. Cycle- rickshaws normally charge about Rs 10 an hour. Rental cars are available at the main square. Your hotel should also be able to arrange them.
Tourist Traps in the City
It is a small place devoid of the regular traps that one faces in big Indian cities. However, be aware of taxi drivers who'll offer to take you from the airport to the hotel, tacitly expecting you to use their services for the entire duration of your stay. They often hang around the hotel. Make it clear at the outset that it is a one-time arrangement only till the hotel.