A haveli is a mansion or large house decorated in grand style and Jaisalmer has some of the very best to be found anywhere in the country. Shekhawatis havelis are renowned for their frescoes but those in Jaisalmer are decorated with finely carved jali-work, a lacework of crafted sandstone so fine as to become a work of art.

Between the 16th and 19th centuries the rich trade routes between east and west made Jaisalmers shrewd merchants immensely rich. Whilst the desert was a harsh place to live, life in the city was good for the top echelon of society and as was their want they created lavish homes decorated with filigree jali-work, cupolas and ornate balustrades. Today the citys visitors are as amazed as ever by the intricate carving on the best havelis.

The Salim Singh Ki Haveli was built some 300 years ago and lies in the east of the city. Salim Singh was a notoriously ruthless Prime Minister some 300 years ago and met his death at the behest of the maharaja. His mansion has a beautifully arched roof with superb carved brackets in the form of peacocks. A stunning cupola-covered balcony adorns the top storey.

Indeed the mansion is just below the hill and it is said that once it had two additional wooden storeys in an attempt to make it as high as the maharajas palace, but the maharaja had the upper storey torn down. The haveli is a testament to the skill and obvious love of the artisans who created the stone carvings. Part of the haveli is still occupied.The Patwon Ki Haveli is one of the largest and most elaborate in Jaisalmer with an exuberance of lace-like jali work.

Five storeys high it is extensively carved and is divided into six apartments, two owned by archaeological Survey of India, two by families who operate craft-shops and two private homes. There are remnants of paintings on some of the inside walls as well as some mirror work.A morning wandering the lanes and backstreets and admiring the lavish havelis is one of the highlights of a visit to Jaisalmer.