Harmandir Sahib, popularly referred to as Golden Temple, is the spiritual epicenter of Sikhism. A visit to Harmandir Sahib is an act of piety for every Sikh. In much the same manner as Mecca is to Muslims. For tourists, the gold leafed marble monument in the middle of a blue pool is at once arresting. The continuous strains of kirtan and Gurbani recitals, and people performing ‘Kar Seva’ - that highlights the religion’s egalitarian ethos - add up to leave a lasting impression. Such has been the magical pull of this spiritual place that it has been getting more footfalls than even the Taj Mahal. And its draw isn’t confined only to the Sikh community.

On entering the complex, many start by doing a Parikarma or walking the pathway that runs along the banks of its rectangular Sarovar or tank. En route the Parikrama are many spots such as Thara Sahib dedicated to Guru Tegh Bahadur, and the Baba Deep Singh shrine among others that honor people who have played a significant part in Sikh history.

The year 1606 marked a watershed in Sikh history. The death of Guru Arjan Dev on the diktat of Mughal Emperor Jahangir triggered a significant change in direction of the new faith. Guru Hargobind, who succeeded him, started adding a martial dimension to the spiritual tenets of Sikhism to tackle future Mughal persecution. This led to the construction of the Akal Takht within the Harmandir Sahib Complex. And from here strategies of battles ahead were worked out. Writes Khushwant Singh in his seminal book ‘A History of the Sikhs’, “[It was here that] instead of chanting hymns of peace, the congregation heard ballads extolling feats of heroism and discussed plans of religious discourses.”

As part of this approach, Guru Hargobind welcomed arms and horses from followers and well wishers. He went on to build a fort called Lohgarh. It was later destroyed by the Afghan invader Ahmad Shah Abdali, but he had sown the seed of a warrior community. One that was perfected by the 10th Guru – Gobind Singh! History enthusiasts can see remains of the walls of the fort behind rows of shops in the bazaar near the temple

A little distance from the Golden Temple complex stands the Jallianwalla Bagh memorial park. It was the scene of a cold blooded massacre. A peaceful mass demonstration had been called by Mahatma Gandhi against the Rowlatt Act on April 13, 1919. It also happened to be Baisakhi, an important day in the Sikh calendar. A crowd of about 20,000 had gathered at this place. Lieutenant Governor of Punjab had declared martial law in response to Gandhi’s call. A platoon of infantry soon arrived under Brigadier-General R.E.H. Dyer’s command. Dyer, without so much as a warning, ordered his 150 troops of Gorkhas to open fire. The troops were positioned at the only exist point of Jallianwalla Bagh. Encircled by high walls, the hapless crowd was a sitting duck. Many tried clambering over the walls, while others jumped into the well to escape the raining bullets. British official estimates put the death toll at 379, with 1200 injured. But the actual figure was much higher. Well above the 1000 mark by most estimates. The incident went on to play an important role in the march towards Independence thereafter.

Today, Jallianwalla Bagh is a well-maintained garden with a memorial set amidst landscaped hedges, fountains and trees. An eternal flame and a museum with pictures and newspaper reports are gentle reminders of its horrific past. But the most telling reminder is the original boundary wall with bullet marks.

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